| | Jun 10, 2006 - Tanna, Vanuatu - | (click to enlarge)
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 | | show all 40 | | Boarding our Twin Otter flight to Tanna | | Transfer by 4x4 - 40 km drive takes almost 2 hours! | | Enroute to the Jungle Oasis | | |
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 | Eric joining in with the locals during a traditional custom song and dance
| | Flute player in the Banyon Tree
| | Standing at the top of an active and errupting volcano
| | End of a big erruption of the Volcano that startled us to death!
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 | | | | Attack of the Cannibals
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| Tanna, Vanuatu - Rumbling, Spewing Volcano and Screaming Cannibals
It sounded like a roll of thunder. And then, another. This time I could swear the rumble made the jungle ground shake slightly. Mount Yasur, the world's most accessible, active volcano lay at the doorstep to our basic bungalow at Jungle Oasis. We had arrived on the island of Tanna where life seemed to be at a stand still. The roads are vastly unpaved and accessible only by 4x4 trucks. The locals live in their small villages with a chief in charge of village affairs. Islanders appear to have no worries or stress. Their homes are traditional, simple thatch huts and the influence of the western world seems to have ended with the clothing they wear and the religion brought by the missionaries. We felt like we had been dropped into a scene straight from a Hollywood movie. It was incredible!
To get to Tanna we took a small Twin Otter plane seating about 20 passengers and as much cargo as they could jam in while staying within the restricted weight allowance for the plane. Upon landing, Charlie from Jungle Oasis greeted us with a warm smile and the typical soft-spoken nature of the Ni-Vanuatu (indigenous Vanuatu citizens). We were off with him and Sam, our driver, to make the 40 kilometre drive across the island to our simple jungle accommodations.
Along the way, Charlie and Sam had an to do list to complete making about five stops for groceries and other chores. Since the resort vehicle was one of the only vehicles from their village, they needed to complete their errands while they were 'in town'. Although the village is only 40 kilometres away, with the conditions of the dirt and jungle roads, the drive takes over and hour and a half to complete! As we got under way, we stopped to pick up locals who piled into the back of the pick-up truck and bounced along, surely hanging on for dear life until they rapped on the truck roof signalling they would like off.
The Jungle Oasis was appropriately named. Set in thick jungle vegetation, on black volcanic sand grounds, were cute little bungalows hidden down narrow, winding paths amongst the lush greenery. The bathroom facilities were shared and electricity came by generator for only a few hours each night. On our first night, we were the only guests sitting around in the dark listening to the drizzling of rain and the rumbling power of Mount Yasur erupting and spitting rocks and lava about every ten minutes. It was magical.
Our second day was action packed. After Eric once again got a little lost wandering around the jungle paths trying to find the restaurant hut for breakfast, we ate and then set off to a Kastom Village (traditional village) about forty minutes down the road. Linda, the owner's daughter walked us to the village whose residents were her relatives. As the village was unaware of our arrival to see the traditional dances, a Tam Tam Drum was used in traditional style, to call the men back to the village. We waited in the drizzling rain with eager anticipation before experiencing a series of songs and dances that transported us to another world - one that fit the jungle surroundings we were sitting in. The men and boys were dressed in traditional attire - nothing but a belt with a grass skirt hanging on the front. They were performing for only the two of us as they sang, danced, demonstrated how they make fire (Survivor contestants could have used this lesson) and played a bamboo flute while perched high up in a magnificent old banyan tree. The village visit was one of those travel highlights that left us walking back towards the volcano on an exquisite high.
After lunch, we were joined by Pete, another traveller who arrived for one night to experience the live volcano and a taste of Tanna. The Jungle Oasis had put together a new cultural tour and the three of us we were to be the first guests to experience it. It was excellent. For about and hour we were lead through the dense jungle, walking through the river, past massive old banyan trees and other lush green jungle vegetation. The rain drizzled down adding to the atmosphere. Along the guided walk, we stopped at stations to learn about the history and culture of Vanuatu. We were 'attacked by cannibals', shown how a chief was carried, visited the inside of a banyan tree and learned about the flora, fauna and local foods. Half the thrill of this tour was seeing how much fun the locals were having. They played their parts like they were academy award winners running through the jungle, climbing the trees, splashing through the river and wrapping it up by singing a set of songs for us.
After the cultural walk, we set off for the moment we had been waiting for - a visit to Mount Yasur, one of the world's most accessible active volcanoes. We had been listening to the rumbling and roaring accompanied by huge puffs of black smoke and steam for over 24 hours now and were eager to see it up close. We opted to walk the 4 kilometres to the top and as we approached the excitement grew. We climbed the steep, black lava sand road as thoughts of our conversation with the Vanuatu Tourist Board came back to mind. We were basically told that visit to Yasur is not like a safe and friendly Disney ride and to head to the top at our own risk. The tourist board had warned us that the level of volcanic activity had been upgraded a while back to a level 2 from the typical level 1. Apparently, the danger comes when one of those red hot lava rocks from an eruption decides not to shoot straight up, and instead blast to the side at 200 metres a second towards the few tourists taking in Yasur's might. Only one tourist has ever been killed though so I figure our odds of spending a couple hours up there is worth the risk. After all, excitement is just like an investment right - the greater the risk, the bigger the reward. I try to ease Eric's nerves by justifying our climb with the fact that many more people have died by doing something simple like climbing Ayers Rock in Australia. Eric quickly asks me what the ratio of deaths per visit would be though, and figure he is right Yasur is may be well ahead of Ayer on the bodies claimed in that department. We proceed anyways. We put our trust in Charlie, our guide, who visits almost every night.
Of course, this is Vanuatu, so there were no warning signs or waivers to be signed except one sign put up by Vanuatu Post for those wanting the claim to fame that they mailed something from an active volcano. Aside from this sign and the post box, the volcano was left as Mother Nature has created her. A few vehicles passed us with other tourists also heading to see a volcano in action. Approaching the summit, we climbed the lunar like landscape passing a dilapidated old hut that was the remains from the popular Survivor TV Series. It was here the award challenge winners had spent the night, while the rest of the crew had stayed back at the Jungle Oasis.
Suddenly we were there, standing at the top of the volcano staring into the smoke and steam. Because the volcano was at an activity of Level 2, we could not climb into the crater to get close enough to see the bubbling lava. However, the trade off is that at Level 2 we were guaranteed to see and hear Yasur's eruptions that may never see at a lower level of activity. As we stood by the edge, staring in awe and with hesitant anticipation, there was a sudden and massive blast. Yasur's awoke with a vengeance causing everyone to jump and some shudder with fear. A red fountain of molten rocks and lava were sent flying into the air from deep within the bowels of the earth. Puffs of black smoke were followed as the lava rained down on the other side of the volcano and fell back into the steaming abyss and bubbling lava pools out of sight down below.
There was a huge buzz of energy amongst the dozen or so tourist atop of Yasur. After the first massive eruption, a few retreated a little, but think everyone was eager for more. And so we sat on the black ash or uncomfortable lava rocks as Yasur continued to put on a show at irregular intervals. We stayed as the sun set and watched on into the first blackness of night as the lava lit the sky as it was spewed from the depths of the earth. We sat poised with our cameras in hopes of capturing the perfect eruption on photo or video - which was much harder than we thought.
Regardless of the quality of any photos or videos, the memory of sitting on top of the volcano, on the very special island of Tanna is one that we will never in our life forget. The jungle, the volcano, the people - everything about the island of Tanna is so memorable and unique.
TRAVEL TIPS FOR TANNA
1. Tanna is a destination for the adventure traveller. Arriving on this island is like stepping back in time where the locals live a laid back lifestyle still in very traditional manners. Although most now dress like Westerners, they largely still follow many of their traditional customs and the villages around the island still have a local chief and speak their own local language.
2. Of course, a visit to Mount Yasur, the active volcano, is a must for all visitors coming to Tanna. The best time to visit is late afternoon and then staying there on top of the volcano until after the sunset when you get the most spectacular pictures of the spewing lava and rocks.
3. Realize that Mount Yasur is an unpredictable, active volcano and visiting it is dangerous. Although it is monitored and rated on a scale of 1 - 5 for the danger factor, you never know when it could shoot a stray rock or lava jet out at a different angle with the potential for serious harm or death. Travel to the summit at your own risk.
4. If you are staying at one of the resorts or guesthouses close to the airport or town, realize that you have about a 2-hour drive to the volcano to get there and then another 2-hour drive back. Pack a snack as it will be a late dinner by the time you return to your resort.
5. If you are looking for the closest accommodation to the volcano where you can hear it rumbling away 24-hours a day and see it smoking away from your resort, you want to stay at the Jungle Oasis. This cute and friendly run resort offers very basic bungalows and numerous culture tours and activities. This is where we stayed and for anyone not adverse to basic accommodations I would highly recommend it.
6. While on Tanna you should take in a Kastom Dance (traditional Vanuatu singing and dancing). Although they are performing for tourists, you do not feel at all like you are at a tourist attraction. You are welcomed into their little village and the dancers are summoned in the traditional manner and come to perform for you. Although it was not a long performance, it was truly unique and a must do for anyone visiting Tanna.
7. If you are short for time in Vanuatu, at the minimum I would recommend doing an overnight trip to Tanna. In the 24-hour period you will get a small taste of the island, see the volcano and can experience a Kastom Village visit and dance. The trip is not too cheap but is well worth the money.
8. There is no public transportation and roads on the island are in rough condition. When travelling anywhere it will take a long time to get from Point A to Point B and pretty much the only way to do it is to book tours through your resort.
9. Flights to Tanna can book up so try to plan your trip in advance so you are not disappointed. The runway on Tanna is paved so flights do run regularly, unlike many of the other outer islands in Vanuatu whose airports can be closed due to rains and bad weather conditions.
10. If you are in Vanuatu, then a trip to Tanna is a must in my mind. It is a great way to get to see the rural side of the country and how the people once lived and are still largely living today.
www.carlhenderson.ca
www.imagestoframe.com
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