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Aug 8, 2006 - Fiji Part 1 - Suva, Levuka, Caquelai and Leluvia
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Albert Park and the old Parliament Buildings - Suva Ovalau Airport - smallest airport we have visited! On the streets of Levuka 
Fiji - Suva, Levuka, Caqualai and Leluvia

Suva - The Largest City in the South Pacific Islands

With just a little more than a month left in our dream trip, we arrived in Fiji for our third and final time. It is a country of over 300 islands, diverse cultures with almost 50% of the population being native Fijian, just under 50% Indian and then a minority of mixed Europeans, Chinese and other Polynesians and Melaneians. The indigenous Fijians are certainly the warmest, friendliest and most welcoming culture we have met on our travels. Their laid back attitude and child like sense of humour accompanied with non-stop laughter and smiles make them a pleasure to be around. If only we could bottle their island lifestyle and attitude to distribute as medicine in our stressful, fast-paced Western world.

Leaving the bulk of our luggage at a local Nadi hotel, we set off for Suva, the capital of Fiji and largest city in the South Pacific Islands. A bustling city by South Pacific standards, it was unfortunate to hear of the growing crime and muggings that take place especially at night. However, it was encouraging to see the abundance of growth and prosperity and the warmth and friendliness of the locals still breaking through the big city bustle. Although Suva is not a hot spot for most tourists, it was interesting to see for a few days and get a better understanding of live in the large South Pacific city.

Levuka, Ovalau - A Step by in Fijian History

From Suva, we took a twelve-minute flight to the neighbouring island of Ovalau to spend two night in Levuka, the old Fjiian Capital. Like a scene straight from a John Wayne movie, Levuka's wooden clapboard buildings were only missing the swinging saloon doors, horses and shootouts to completely take us back to its lawless Wild West days. Back in the early colonial times, Levuka, then the Fijian Capital, became a somewhat unruly, drunken society filled with sailors and cavorting Europeans. When it was determined the city was outgrowing itself, and eventually the capital was transferred to the island of Vita Levu and the city of Suva where it remains today.

After spending two nights in the South Pacific's oldest operating hotel, with its creaking wooden floors and humming electrical lights, we said goodbye to historic Levuka and boarded a little boat with its 40 horsepower motor to take us across to the tiny resort island of Caqalai and then Leluvia.

Caqalai and Leluvia - Idyllic Sand Islands

The islands everyone dreams of - small sand islands set in the South Pacific ringed with a soft sandy beach, covered with palm trees, and room for only enough other travellers to provide you with some company but not too many to ruin the atmosphere. Stepping off the islands, you enter the warm, clear Fijian waters and are treated to the incredible under water world filled with exotic tropical fish and corals. The snorkelling off both Caqalai and Leluvia is some of the best ever. The fish are so brilliantly coloured, soft and hard corals abound and the waters warm enough to allow you to enjoy snorkelling for hours on at time. For anyone dreaming of a tiny South Pacific paradise both these islands are incredible.

We spent three nights on the island of Caqalai and then took a 10-minute boat ride across to the neighbouring island of Leluvia for another 2 nights. On a previous trip, ten years prior, I had fallen in love with Leluvia, which unfortunately, the basic island resort had been mismanaged, and run down. However, while in Levuka we learned it was under new management and now in the process of being rebuilt to the great retreat it once was. I just had to return to revisit my memories and was not disappointed. The island, although it had obviously been mismanaged, was well on its way to being rebuilt into a great little island resort. Of course, the natural beauty of the island was still intact with its great beach, palms, snorkelling and friendly local staff - some of whom where still the same from my visit ten years earlier.

So for five days we had the best time on our two island paradises. Both with traditional bure accommodations, bucket showers and basic Fijian meals the islands are not for those looking for a five star resort. However, to experience the warmth and hospitality of local Fijians, set on the deserted, tropical island paradise usually only dreamed of, you can't go wrong with a visit to Caqalai and Leluvia.

www.carlhenderson.ca

www.imagestoframe.com


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