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Mar 19, 2006 - Chiang Mai - Hilltribe Trekking and Cooking Class
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Our greeting upon arrival in Chiang Mai Street scenes around Chiang Mai One of many Wats in Chiang Mai 

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On the back of an elephant

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CHIANG MAI - HILLTRIBE TREKKING AND COOKING CLASS

After an eleven-hour overnight train shared with a coach full of other sleeping tourists and locals, we wound up in Chiang Mai over 500 kms north of Bangkok. A smiling Thai girl greeted us at the station holding a Libra Guesthouse sign welcoming 'Erica'. We had a hearty laugh and I joked teasingly, "Look, rumours about you have already starting circling South-East Asia!" Our guesthouse hostess was quick to apologize as she joined in our laughter and were soon settled into our friendly, comfortable accommodations quickly getting to know the staff and other travellers from around the world.

Chiang Mai is a traveller's hotspot for hilltribe trekking and education classes of all kinds - Thai cooking classes, Thai language classes, massage classes, yoga and the list goes on. For our visit, we planned to attempt to improve our culinary skills with a Thai cooking course and to set off to the jungle for three days spending our nights with the minority hilltribe villages.

Unfortunately, before we could do either, we were bed ridden. We now think we came down with some kind of Norwalk-like virus that drained us of ever ounce of energy and anything we had consumed in the last week. For 36 hours, we didn't move from our room or beds. We did absolutely nothing but sleep the whole time, that is, when we weren't jockeying for a position in the washroom. One of the worst things about travelling and living on the road has to be getting sick. Without the creature comforts of home, friends and family to help look after you, or the ability to even make some dry toast with having to get dressed and go to a restaurant, makes the whole experience that much more taxing. When we were finally feeling better, it was if we had a new lease on life and were eager to set off on our trek.

With our hilarious trekking guide and lady-boy Rooney, fellow travellers Dan and Lisa from England and Kelly and Starla from California we set off to hike through the hilltribe villages of Northern Thailand. In the three days, we visited different villages with their simple and basic lifestyles and slept in village homes in the middle of the bush. We rode elephants (ours decided to have a shower mid-river while we were sitting on his back...a unique, wet and muddy experience), hiked along dried rice fields, through wooded forests, showered in refreshing (yes, that is a polite way of saying freezing) waterfalls and wrapped up the 3-days with a relaxing bamboo raft ride down a lovely mountain river.

Upon returning from our trek, we took our day long Thai cooking class that started with a trip to the local market with our instructors. This alone was worth the course fee, as we learned about all the exotic fruits and foods, some such as the fried crickets and cockroaches that were a bit too exotic for out tastes. By the end of the day, we had mastered how to make Thai Spring Rolls, Tom Yom Soup, Pad Thai, Sweet and Sour Chicken, Green Curry Chicken and a delicious fried banana and ice cream desert. I say we mastered these dishes, but that of course was in class with an instructor by our side and the ability to shop at a local Thai market. We will see how we do back in Toronto on our own and shopping at our local Loblaws!

After our three days of hiking and day of cooking school, we decided it was time to pamper ourselves and experience the famed Thai massage. For 150 Baht, (about $5 CAD) we had a one hour-long rub down - a shocking bargain! If you have never had a Thai massage it is quite an experience as the masseuse, typically a petit lady weighing a small fraction of my own weight, gets her whole body into the action. She bends and contorts both her body and yours as she practically walks all over you in a talented and comfortable manner easing all your muscles and aches and leaving you in heaven.

Alas, staying much longer than anticipated, we sad goodbye to BooBoo, Rooney and the other great staff and friends at the Libra Guesthouse and set off to make our way to the Thai/Laos border at Chiang Khong where we would leave Thailand and start the next leg of our journey to Luang Prabang in Laos.

TRAVEL TIPS FOR CHIANG MAI

1. When booking a trek to the hilltribe communities choose your trekking company wisely. Remember your guide can make or break your trek and you want to travel with someone knowledgeable and experienced.

2. Many of the treks that run close to Chiang Mai are part of the main tourist track now. Don't expect to be going off the beaten track and not seeing any other tourists or visiting villages that have never had a tourist visit before. Many of these villages have visitor more nights of the week than they don't have visitors. For treks into more unexplored regions the cost is typically a little higher and a longer transfer time is required with a minimum of 3-days trekking.

3. When trekking, be prepared for some basic accommodations usually just a few blankets or if you are lucky a mattress on a wooden floor. Most homes also supply mosquito nets but be sure to pack insect repellent and of course sunscreen for the day time.

4. When visiting local villages remember to follow proper etiquette: dress modestly, always ask before taking photographs, do not give money or gifts that will encourage the people to beg from future tourist. If you would like to do something to help the poor villages donations can be made through proper channels rather than just handing out money.

5. The night bazaar in Chiang Mai is very large and a great place to do some shopping

for gifts, souvenirs and local handicrafts.

6. If you are interested in taking any of the courses available, make sure you budget enough time for your visit - Chiang Mai has become somewhat of an educational tourism destination.

7. The Thai Elephant Conservation Centre is located just outside of Chiang Mai and has a great reputation for helping conserve the Thai elephants. If you are interested in learning and working with the elephants, they have a volunteer program where you can pay to stay there and help with the elephant's care and training. It is supposed to be an incredible experience for animal lovers.

8. Trekking from Chiang Mai is incredibly popular but there are other alternative trekking areas available as well. Consider a visit to Pai or Chiang Rai for additional trekking destinations.

9. Chiang Mai is a growing city and has a lot to offer travellers with a large variety of restaurants and food stalls. Remember to watch what you eat from the street-side vendors and best to choose the busiest vendor around to ensure the food is fresh.

10. Visit the local Thai market where the locals do all of their shopping for groceries and other needs. The range of food available is incredible and you can enjoy walking the aisles and purchasing some of the exotic fruits or baked sweets to try.

www.carlhenderson.ca

www.imagestoframe.com


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